10 Things to Consider When Buying motor 15

Image

It is important to know how to read the labels and what to look for on both the front and back labels of the motor oil you buy, or you may be using product that can cause unsatisfactory performance or damage to your engine. The following are some key items to look for on motor oil labels and to consider before buying.

Image

American Petroleum Institute (API) Service Symbol “Donut”

The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that an oil meets certain quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label, usually found on the back label.

The label includes two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle.

Oil Viscosity

The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. Viscosity is simply the resistance of a fluid to flow. A higher viscosity implies a slower flow and a thicker fluid. The viscosity changes with temperature to ensure protection and operability under all circumstances. Thus, the viscosity index measures the ability of an engine oil to resist becoming thinner at high temperatures. conventional oils incorporate additives to change its viscosity. 

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity.

Multi-viscosity motor oils are designated by two numbers – the first set of numbers (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25), is indicative of how the oil flows at low temperatures and is followed by the letter W to designate the engine oil's "winter" grade. The second set of numbers indicates how the oil flows at higher/operating temperatures. This is important since oil naturally thickens when cold and thins when hot. If the grade listed is not preceded by “SAE” and/or there is no “W-” between the first and second number, it may not be a multi-grade. As an example, a 5-30 is not the same as an SAE 5W-30.

You should be aware of changes in weather and climate to keep your engine fully functional. Here you can see the recommended oil for each ambient temperature:

Image

NOTE: Ambient temperature in ºC

Multi-viscosity (aka multi-grade) motor oils are most commonly recommended for use in vehicles currently on the road.

Look to your owner’s manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car’s engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30 and 10W30.

API Service Classification

Image

Viscosity characteristics, are the first and most important element of the classification and labeling of motor oils, but viscosity is not the only factor to consider when choosing a motor oil.  The second thing to look for on the API donut is the service classification which helps determine the right ratio of oil properties to its operating conditions.

Motor Oil Service Classification for Gasoline Engines

The classification works this way; early in the automotive industry, The first API Service Classification of motor oil was SA. From there, as motor oil improved and met increasing specifications for newer cars, the classification moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI and SK).

Image

If you buy a motor oil meeting only API SA, it's a motor oil formulated for use in gasoline engine vehicles built in the 1920s. You can use newer motor oil with a more recent API rating. Newer motor oil blends are backwards compatible. That means they work just fine in older engines. You can’t say the same thing about older API ratings. They’re not compatible with newer engines. It’s because motor oil with older API ratings can’t handle the heat generated by newer engines. Heat causes the oil to degrade quickly, and once it degrades it can’t lubricate the engine well enough. If you use motor oil with an API rating for engines older than yours, your engine will wear prematurely.  Because SA or other obsolete API Service Categories are sometimes mixed in with SN on the shelves, it is vital to read the API label carefully.  Also, don't let price guide you. Motor oils with a Service Classification prior to SN (including SA) are often priced close to that of API SN. 

"It's important to learn about a vehicle before you spend money for its purchase. The information in this publication may help you choose the vehicle that best meets your needs."

Buying from a Dealer

In New York State, every automotive dealer must register with the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). A registered dealer must obey certain state and federal laws that protect your purchase of a new or used car, truck, or other motor vehicle, including one sold as "salvage." New vehicles are also protected by manufacturer's warranty.  You can search for registered Automotive Dealers by using the “Find a DMV-regulated Business” service.

When you buy a used vehicle, the dealer must certify, in writing, that it is "in condition and repair to render, under normal use, satisfactory and adequate service upon the public highway at the time of delivery." The dealer certification covers the entire vehicle except items that would be obvious to the customer before the sale, such as torn upholstery, missing hubcaps, etc. The vehicle also must have all safety equipment and emissions controls required by state and federal laws for the vehicle's model year.

A dealer also must:

• have the vehicle inspected before selling it to a retail customer, even if the vehicle is new. The inspection must be done within 30 days of the date of sale and before you take delivery. The dealer may charge you the inspection fee.
• provide service or repairs under the manufacturer's warranty if the dealer is franchised by that manufacturer. Warranty service also may be available from other dealers franchised by the manufacturer.
• indicate, in writing, on the bill of sale whether a vehicle sold to a retail buyer is new, used, reconstructed, rebuilt salvage, or originally not manufactured to U.S. standards (see Title Branding).
• provide the buyer completed odometer and damage disclosure statements:
  
  
  • For motor vehicles manufactured in or after the 2011 model year that are 20 model years old or newer, the seller must complete the odometer disclosure statement on the back of the title certificate. For vehicles manufactured in or before model year 2010 or a motor vehicle manufactured in or after the 2011 model year that is older than 20 model years, odometer disclosure is not required.
  • The damage disclosure statement on the back of the title certificate must be completed regardless of the vehicle’s age. 

Note: The DMV will not register or grant title to a salvaged vehicle without a completed salvage disclosure statement. In addition, the DMV must examine each vehicle branded or identified by the seller as "Rebuilt Salvage" for stolen parts before the vehicle can be registered or titled.

• complete and sign an odometer disclosure statement if the vehicle was manufactured in or after the 2011 model year and is 20 model years old or newer. This statement is on the Retail Certificate of Sale (MV-50). The buyer also must acknowledge and sign the odometer statement. 
• indicate on the sales contract when a passenger car had been used primarily as a police car, taxicab, driver education or rental car.
• abide by the requirements regarding catalytic converter etching kits, effective April 15, 2023. All dealers of new (not used or previously owned) motor vehicles must:
• Stock catalytic converter etching kits. The etching kits must be capable of etching a traceable serial number onto the catalytic converter of a new motor vehicle that can be clearly seen and quickly linked back to the vehicle in the event of theft.
• Offer you a catalytic converter etching kit if you purchase a new motor vehicle; and
• Charge you no more than the price paid by the dealer for the etching kit. The dealer may charge you the installation fee.

If you choose to accept the catalytic converter etching kit, the dealer may record and/or register the catalytic converter's serial number on your behalf or provide you with instructions. In either case, the dealer should provide you with all etching kit documentation intended for the owner.

If a lien is being recorded or the dealer issued number plates, the dealer MUST handle the registration for you. The dealer may charge you up to $175 for this service, plus the actual fees for the vehicle's Certificate of Title (MV-999), registration, and license plates. As a customer courtesy, a registered dealer may submit your completed Vehicle Registration/Title Application (MV-82) to the DMV. The dealer also may provide a temporary certificate of  registration and, if needed, new license plates.

Buying From a Private Seller

One advantage of buying a vehicle from a private seller is the possibility of lower cost compared to buying from a dealer. However, there are disadvantages.

• A private seller does not have to follow important regulations that a dealer must obey. In addition, a private seller rarely offers a warranty. If you have a complaint about the vehicle or purchase, you are on your own to resolve the problem with the seller, or in taking legal action. You cannot file a complaint with the DMV or other consumer assistance agencies if you buy a defective vehicle in a private sale.
• If you buy a vehicle 8 model years old or newer, the DMV will NOT register or issue you a new title certificate unless the seller has completed, and you have signed, the damage disclosure statement on the reverse of the vehicle's Certificate of Title (MV-999) or have attached a completed damage disclosure on an Odometer and Damage Disclosure Statement (MV-103). This statement indicates whether or not the vehicle's new title certificate should be branded "Rebuilt Salvage" (see Title Branding). An Odometer and Damage Disclosure Statement (pdf) (MV-103) is available at any motor vehicle office. 
• For motor vehicles manufactured in or after the 2011 model year that are 20 model years old or newer, the seller must complete the odometer disclosure statement on the back of the title certificate. For vehicles manufactured in or before model year 2010 or a motor vehicle manufactured in or after the 2011 model year that is older than 20 model years, odometer disclosure is not required.
• The damage disclosure statement on the back of the title certificate must be completed  regardless of the vehicle’s age. 

IMPORTANT:  THE DMV MUST EXAMINE EVERY VEHICLE IDENTIFIED AS "REBUILT SALVAGE" FOR STOLEN PARTS BEFORE THE VEHICLE CAN BE REGISTERED OR TITLED. 

 

Title Branding

If a vehicle has been rebuilt, originally not manufactured to U.S. standards, or reconstructed, a branding notice must be printed in capital letters on the front of the New York State title certificate. A dealer must inform a customer, in writing, if a branded vehicle is being shown or sold to a retail customer. This may be a notice placed on the dealer's bill of sale or handed to the customer.

You can also find a printed notice on the front of the title certificate if a vehicle previously had been returned to the manufacturer, its agent, or dealer because it did not conform to warranty. It also will be printed on the title after a final determination of a court finding or settlement under the state's Lemon Law. This notice will read:

"IMPORTANT: THIS VEHICLE WAS RETURNED TO THE MANUFACTURER OR DEALER BECAUSE IT DID NOT CONFORM TO ITS WARRANTY."

The brands below may be printed on a New York State Certificate of Title (MV-999) for 1973 and newer vehicles:

REBUILT SALVAGE/NY

A vehicle with this label has been rebuilt after being wrecked, destroyed or damaged in excess of 75 percent of its retail value at the time of loss, or originally had entered New York State under a branded out-of-state title. Previous branding includes Salvage, Rebuilt Salvage, Salvage Restored, Junk, Parts Only, Water Damage, or other description. The Rebuilt Salvage branding will remain on the title for as long as the vehicle exists, no matter how many improvements are made to the vehicle.

NON-USA-STD

A vehicle with this label was not originally manufactured in compliance with United States emissions or safety standards, or both.

RECONSTRUCTED

A vehicle with this label has been repaired or constructed with a glider kit, but not one manufactured in two or more stages. A glider kit includes all components of a vehicle except the power train. It is generally used to rebuild heavy trucks or tractors that have been extensively damaged. Passenger cars built from custom kits are not considered reconstructed vehicles.

Reported Mileage

Vehicles manufactured in or before model year 2010 or a motor vehicle manufactured in or after the 2011 model year that is older than 20 model years are exempt from mileage disclosure.

For all other titled vehicles, the odometer mileage reported during the vehicle's most recent transfer of ownership is printed on the front of its New York State Certificate of Title (MV-999). If the odometer had passed its maximum reading at the time of sale, the description "EXCEEDS MECHANICAL LIMITS" will be printed below the reported mileage. If the actual mileage is unknown because the odometer is broken, or has been repaired or replaced, the front of the title will be printed with "NOT ACTUAL MILEAGE, WARNING ODOMETER DISCREPANCY."

Choosing a Vehicle

National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) Vehicle History For Consumers at YouTube

Vehicle price is not controlled by any government agency. Take time to choose a vehicle that meets your needs and budget. Before you buy a vehicle, compare prices by checking newspaper ads and visit a number of dealers and/or private sellers. Then take it for a test drive. If you are knowledgeable, examine the engine, transmission, drive axles, steering and suspension, brakes and electrical system. If you do not know what to look for, it may be wise to pay a professional automotive technician to examine the vehicle.

Before you buy from a dealer, find out about dealer or manufacturer warranties, what they cover, and for how long. Ask if the dealer performs service or subcontracts to a repair shop. Be sure all agreements, guarantees and warranties are in writing.

 

What to look for

• Examine the vehicle in bright daylight. Look carefully at the body for signs of collision damage or rust. Check the paint and vinyl top, sides, or trim for signs of wear or damage. Check all lights, lenses and mirrors for cracks or other damage.
• Look inside the vehicle for signs of wear or damage that may reduce its value, such as splits or holes in the upholstery. Make sure all seat belts are in place, and in good working condition. Look under the rugs or mats for dampness or water damage, which could mean there are body leaks.
• Open the trunk or rear hatch and check for leaks. Examine the spare tire, taking it out if necessary. Make sure the jack and lug wrench are there.
• Examine the engine compartment for signs of rusted metal around fenders, oil leaks, or excessive dirt on the engine. These can be signs of high mileage. Look at and feel rubber parts such as fan belts and radiator hoses. If they are hard, cracked or too soft, they should be replaced.
• Make sure the exhaust emissions control systems are intact and working.
• Start the vehicle when the engine is cold and listen to make sure it runs smoothly when cold. While the engine warms, check the dash gauges and all inside and outside lights. Make sure the heater, defrosters, air conditioner, windshield washer and wipers work properly.
• If the vehicle is properly registered, you may choose to take it for a test drive. The engine should accelerate smoothly, and the transmission should shift without hesitation, roughness or loud noises. Drive the vehicle on a straight, flat surface, and let go of the steering wheel for a moment to see if the front wheels follow a straight track without pulling to either side. When braking, there should be no unusual noise, vibration, or pulling to either side.

• Your test drive should include stop-and-go driving on local streets and driving at highway speeds, over a variety of surfaces and several hills. Note how well the vehicle runs and handles. Also, check to see if the engine overheats.

• If you are satisfied after the test drive, have the vehicle raised on a lift or jacks. Examine the condition of the brakes, tires, front and rear suspension, exhaust system and catalytic converter. Look for oil or fluid leaks underneath.

Taking Delivery

If you decide the vehicle is in good condition and worth the price, be sure the seller has the proper ownership and transfer documents. Ask the seller, and examine the title certificate, for information about unsatisfied liens (bank loans, etc.). Carefully examine all documents before you pay for the vehicle. In a private sale, have the seller make out a bill of sale in addition to the ownership and sales tax documents.

Proofs of Vehicle Ownership

For a new vehicle purchased from a New York State registered dealer - the proof of ownership is a Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin (MCO) and the dealer's "Certificate of Sale" (MV-50).

For a used vehicle purchased from a New York State registered dealer - the proof of ownership is the Certificate of Title (MV-999), or a transferable registration for 1972 and older models, signed over to the dealer, and the dealer's Certificate of Sale (MV-50) showing ownership transfer to you. The dealer must complete, and you must acknowledge by signing, the appropriate odometer and damage disclosure statements.

For a used vehicle bought from a private seller - the proof of ownership is the Certificate of Title (MV-999), or a transferable registration for 1972 or older models, signed over to you. The seller must complete, and you must acknowledge by signing, the appropriate odometer and damage disclosure statements.

• Be sure the private seller completes the seller's section of the form Statement of Transaction - Sale or Gift of Motor Vehicle, Trailer, All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV), Vessel (Boat), or Snowmobile (pdf)  (at NY State Department of Tax and Finance) (DTF-802), available at motor vehicle offices or at the DMV web site. This form certifies the purchase price and determines the sales tax you must pay when registering the vehicle. If the form is not filled out by the seller, you will be charged sales tax based on the vehicle's current fair market value.
• Before you accept the title certificate from the seller, check the front of the title for the names and addresses of lien holders. A lien indicates the current owner owes money on a loan for the vehicle. If a lien is listed on the title, ask the seller to give you the proof the lien has been paid - in most cases, it will be an official lien release from the lender. If proof is not provided, the lien holder could repossess the vehicle from you.

 A motor vehicle office will not accept a title certificate if the appropriate odometer or damage disclosure statement is not completed, or if any information on the title is altered, erased, or crossed out, including any name or signature.

If you have a concern or question about the title, registration, sales tax or proof of ownership, contact the DMV Call Center or any motor vehicle office before you buy the vehicle.

Trading In or Selling Your Vehicle

Before you trade in or sell your old vehicle, be sure to remove the license plates and the windshield registration sticker, which shows your plate number. This will help prevent you from being charged with parking tickets that do not belong to you.

Turn in the plates to a motor vehicle office unless you are transferring them to a replacement vehicle. Always turn in your plates before you cancel liability insurance or before the insurance lapses. If you do not, your registration will be suspended, and your driver license could be suspended as well.

When transferring the vehicle's title certificate to a new owner, you must fill out the appropriate odometer and damage disclosure statements, and sign your name at "Seller's Signature." Then enter the seller's information on the sales tax form Statement of Transaction - Sale or Gift of Motor Vehicle, Trailer, All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV), Vessel (Boat), or Snowmobile (pdf)  (at NY State Department of Tax and Finance) (DTF-802), available at any motor vehicle office and the DMV internet site.

Department of Motor Vehicles Consumer Assistance

If you have a complaint about your vehicle, bring it to the attention of the dealership management right away. Keep a record of all contacts with the dealer about the vehicle and any repairs or adjustments made. Keep copies of all work orders and invoices as proof of your attempts to resolve the problem.

If you cannot resolve the problem with the dealer, write to: Bureau of Consumer and Facility Services, PO Box 2700-ESP, Albany, NY 12220-0700, or phone (518) 474-8943 between 8:30 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. weekdays.

If your complaint concerns a repair, you must file it with the Department of Motor Vehicles within 90 days or 3,000 miles of the repair, whichever comes first. If your complaint does not fall within its jurisdiction, DMV will refer you to the proper agency.

Lemon Laws

New York State's new and used car lemon laws provide legal remedies for consumers who buy or lease cars. If a car does not live up to the written warranty and cannot be repaired - or if it has not been repaired correctly after a reasonable number of attempts - the consumer could receive a refund or replacement car.

For information and assistance concerning the Lemon Laws, contact:

Office of the Attorney General
Albany, NY 12224
Telephone: 1-800-771-7755 or 1-518-474-5481
or any regional office of the Attorney General.

You may also contact:
Department of State, Division of Consumer Protection
Consumer Assistance Unit
99 Washington Avenue, Albany, NY 12231-0001
Telephone: 1-800-697-1220 or 1-518-474-8583.

DMV CALL CENTER TELEPHONE NUMBERS

 

NEW YORK STATE DEPARTMENT OF MOTOR VEHICLES
Mark J. F. Schroeder, Commissioner

C-18 (1/21)  Edited for the Internet 1/21

 

Return to DMV Publications